After experimenting with Goodyear Welted manufacturing in the 1960s, we were excited to bring the production method back to our factory full-time almost two years ago. Since that introduction, we have been diligently searching for the machinery necessary to produce Goodyear Welted products with a Channelled Insole, which we feel is the highest quality and most traditional version of this manufacturing method. We are pleased to announce that we have tracked down several vintage machines from the 1940s and are now able to produce Goodyear Welted footwear with a Channelled Insole in place of the typical canvas ribbing.
Gemming, which refers to the canvas ribbing used as an attachment point between the insole and welt on most Goodyear Welted footwear, was invented in the 1950s as a way to cut costs and speed up the manufacturing process. Today more than 95% of all Goodyear Welted shoes are made using this technique. The gemming itself is only attached to the insole by glue and therefor increases the chances of the welt failing with prolonged wear and repeated resoles. In the Channelled Insole method the welt is stitched directly to a lip formed on the leather insole, eliminating the need for a separate attachment point and creating a stronger bond between the internal components of the shoe.
We use a high quality, heavyweight leather insole and feed it by hand through a machine that cuts a channel around the perimeter. The insole is then run through a second machine which raises the two sides of the channel, bringing them together to form a solid lip. This process is difficult and labour intensive, but we feel this technique further separates our product from other shoe manufacturers and is the highest quality method available outside of bespoke hand-welting. We will slowly be introducing products to our webshop and retailers featuring this new Channelled Insole production. For more information or general feedback please feel free to contact us directly via phone or email.