An Exploration of Stitchdown
26th July, 2023
Implemented in the 1970s, we have been producing Stitchdown construction for over 50 years.
This type of construction is synonymous with boot makers in the Pacific Northwest due to its durability and ability to wick away water, mud, and dirt.
Our boots are hand-lasted with side lasting pliers, a hammer, and solid brass tacks. Unlike traditional Goodyear welt production, true Stitchdown construction is done largely by hand. This is not common in a Goodyear Welt factory, where the use of a hammer with nails and tacks is less prevalent. Mass production through machinery is not possible with this method.
During the toe lasting phase, we skive the upper leather by hand, cut and turn the vamp outwards, allowing it to be stitched onto a solid leather midsole. The back half of the boots is fully nailed into place with brass nails, tacks, and staples, ensuring the upper stays in place and providing a locked-in heel without movement. The midsole is then nailed into place in the back half of the boot, while the forefront is stitched out and down.
We are the only manufacturer globally that uses solid brass nails, tacks, and staples, which do not corrode the leather over time due to perspiration. These brass components are custom made for us in Japan by a small family business that shares the same values as we do in the products we manufacture.
The internal chassis of our Stitchdown products consists of a heavy-weight 5-5.5mm leather insole, a solid leather heel, and a toe stiffener. These components make up a 100% natural chassis that surrounds and conforms to the shape of your feet.
One of the most complicated procedures in producing any Stitchdown product is the fact that there are two rows of stitching side by side, directly stitching the vamp to the midsole of the boot. Unlike Goodyear Welt construction, if a mistake is made, the sole with welt can be easily taken apart and reattached to correct the error.
With a Stitchdown product, if the operator makes a mistake while stitching the outsole, the entire boot is effectively unsellable. The operator has only one chance to get it right.
Like Goodyear welt construction, our Stitchdown products are fully resoleable and recraftable. With proper care, they can easily last 10-15 years.
